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Cook Islands, Mangaia, Cave Tours, Burial Caves,
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Cook Islands, Mangaia, Cave Tours, Burial Caves,

Politically incorrect it might seem nowadays. At the time it was a triumphant declaration of self-determination. Today, dusty and paint chipped on the roadside, the plaque serves as a reminder of more innocent times, of starched shirts and knee-length socks and other colonial fashions.

Before colonialism went out of fashion, New Zealand spent the fifties attending to infrastructure needs among island possessions. Kiwi engineers supervised a project using leftover explosives from World War II to blast through tons of coral in the makatea to create a shortcut from the main village of Oneroa to the interior.

For the first time, by 1951, a road was built linking the coast with the core of the island. It is a marvel, driving through the narrow one-vehicle-at-a-time road. Walls on either side are sharply vertical, cutting up to 15 metres high, the height of a five storey building in natural coral.

More recently, in 1997, island residents gave up waiting for a rock crusher to seal kilometres of dusty roads. Instead, they chipped tons of long dead inland coral themselves. By hand. With picks and shovels.

Just one example of the tenacity and determination of Mangaians who also have a charming lighter side and speak a gentle lilting Cook Islands Maori dialect. No wonder long-departed expatriates dubbed them the "Irish of the Pacific."

Mangaia features some of the most intricate carvings throughout the Pacific.

Including the story behind what must be the world's most awkwardly handled adze axe. Decidedly ceremonial in appearance, the adze sits atop a tall, roughly triangular shaped wooden 'box'. Not much use for gouging out a canoe, then.

A trilingual, two-volume set on Oceanic Art explains these adze are "unique" to the island of Mangaia. Evolving from a thin handled workaday model into a thicker religious, ceremonial version, the adze became standalone after the arrival of European trading ships; a commercial curio. Ethnologist Sir Peter Buck is quoted as meeting Taniela (Daniel) Tangitoru in 1929, and described him at the time as being the "only surviving" commercial adze maker.

"He was the last in a line of sculptors who, for 100 years, supplied the world with the vast quantities of pedestal adzes that exist in collections." Curious to think of curios being sold on Mangaia nearly two centuries ago!

Pedestal adzes may have been unique to Mangaia, but the intricate carving style was very much in keeping with their close cultural cousins in the Australs group, next door in French Polynesia. Colonial borders divide islands today, but carving skills unite these islands and are very much still alive.

Tiny pupu snails emerge from the coral makatea after rain, countless millions of them.

Many thousands end up as necklaces and other decorations, each painstakingly hand holed and stitched together after being boiled on an open fire to get rid of the small snail. A round, tubular pupu shell hat band sits comfortably heavy on your head, ensuring your portable shade device won't blow away except in the briskest of breezes.

Like the carvings, Mangaia craftwork is intricate. Visit the market on Friday mornings at the government administration grounds to purchase handmade craft at very reasonable prices. Small handbags and clutches feature exquisite detailing. Stow the handbags for admiring gasps back home.

Use the hat while exploring the island. Mangaia is the country's second biggest and, unlike Rarotonga with soaring mountains, it is relatively flat. Gentle valleys and rolling hills are perfect for trekking.

Take an hour or two, or the whole day, following the coastal roads, or take a guide. If you head inland be prepared for a surprisingly confusing array of tracks. Over the years, little bike-bred shortcuts to swimming spots, pig feeding points, taro patches and plantation spreads have multiplied to bewildering complexities. Lost? Just head for the sea, you'll find your way back.

On these treks you may pass just one or two people on vehicles or see a few others busy planting in their taro patches. A big island with around 500 or so people.

Keep an eye out when in the bush for the Mangaian Kingfisher, an indigene. Ask about the giant footprint in the coral reef. Walk down an ancient flight of steps leading to the island's interior where the taro patches and plantations are.

Mangaian forefathers carved the steps into the makatea to create a shortcut to their plantations. In Tamarua village, visit the site where Rori, a mischievous and cunning thief once lived many hundreds of years ago.

Rori could never be captured by irate locals fed-up over his thievery. The notorious island bandit devised the tamaka, a sandal woven from bark of the au tree, which he would strap on and flee from his pursuers over the sharp makatea. With bare feet, infuriated pursuers had no hope of catching Rori, who would dance and tease them from afar.

At the site of his home remains a coral path, which clicks when walked upon - warning crafty Rori that intruders were approaching. Rori's tamaka could well possibly have been the first 'espadrille' ever designed. These are still being made by the locals as souvenirs and for traditional ceremonies.

Mangaia is fascinating, with much to experience. But remember to go at pupu pace.